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Pizza al taglio is ubiquitous in Italy’s capital city, where it’s typically sold by weight at hole-in-the-wall bakeries and stands. Roma Roma’s interpretation of the style is faithful to the rectangular, focaccia-like crust, with a pillowy interior and a crunchy, pleasantly oily exterior. It takes some less traditional, mostly successful detours where toppings are concerned; a patatas bravas pie is heaped with fried potato and smoky tomato sauce, and another is laden with slabs of braised beef cheek and vermouth-glazed radicchio. The Italian sodas are a sleeper hit, with punchy, sour syrups like sea buckthorn and black currant nicely rounded out by a judicious hit of cream.

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Roma Roma

 

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