Chef Brendan McGill was sick of hamburgers. He’d been running Burgerhaus, his pandemic pivot pop-up that focused on burgers, fries, and shakes, at Bainbridge Island’s Hitchcock Restaurant for a year. For a while, it had been been a fun switch-up from the fine-dining approach he was used to, but by fall 2021, his heart no longer felt in it.
“I didn’t want to eat that food a lot,” McGill says. “The place felt kind of greasy. There’s no way around it when you make a zillion fries every day.” He was also tired of only serving food that was good for takeout, and he longed for the times when
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