James Lim is tired. “I’ve been sleeping probably like, three to four hours a night for the last 20, 30 days. I just pass out in the middle of day sometimes,” he says. “My partner is like, ‘Hey, wake up and go sleep in the bed.’”
Lim is the owner of Watson’s Counter, a Korean-influenced brunch-centric restaurant that’s become famous for dishes like its Fruity Pebbles-coated French toast, loco moco, and chicken wings. The chill, welcoming vibes belie how painstaking Lim is about every last detail. The French toast, for instance, is served with orange-rosemary whipped cream; the loco moco hamburger patty is a blend of chuck, brisket, and
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