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How Lily Wu’s Noodles Conquered Seattle
Xiaoli (Lily) Wu grew up in a small village near Songyuan in northeastern China’s Jilin province. Wu describes it as a poor area with no rice production. Any wheat was sold to make money, so corn powder played a prominent role in the diet. The roads were dirt. “One day I walked two miles and saw my first paved road and then saw a car,” she recalls, still with a sense of astonishment. “It made me want to get one, and made me want to make money to change my family’s life.”Wu’s parents sent her to middle school in Beijing to get a better education. The trip marked her first time on a bus. At lunch, she ate Xi’an-style biang biang noodles for the first time — long, wide, at once silky and chewy. She loved them, but with limited money necessitating meals at the school’s cafeteria, those noodles would be a constant craving too luxurious to afford.Decades later, she’s made those noodles the center of her professional life. She opened Xi’an Noodles in 2016 in the University District and has since opened two more locations to make a mini chain. She now has a seafood restaurant called Happy Crab in Auburn and soon will open her most ambitious project — a massive new Happy Crab on the Ballard waterfront where Anthony’s used to be. Wu built up this portfolio of businesses the same way she makes her noodles: from scratch.The inside of Happy Crab in Ballard. Brooke FittsShe dreamed of living in America and managed to get a student visa and funding in 2006. She settled in Flushing, New York, and took English lessons in Brooklyn. In 2010, she moved to Seattle, working up to 15 hours a day as a housekeeper at hotels to make a living. Missing her beloved biang biang noodles, she took a leap of faith and traveled to Xi’an to learn how to make them. She eventually gave her the proper technique for stretching and thwacking the dough (made with high-gluten flour) to get the noodles’ distinctive texture.In 2014 she opened her first venture, QQ Mini Hot Pot, inside the Korean grocery store Woori Market in the U District. This was the first restaurant in the area to serve malatang — a personalized hot pot in which diners choose the ingredients that go in a numbing (ma) and spicy (la) broth. “Malatang is pretty easy to prepare in just putting everything together,” Wu explains, “But it gave me the chance to perfect the art of making biang biang noodles and also liang pi (another noodle dish from Shaanxi province).”A sign at the entrace to Happy Crab. Brooke FittsUnfortunately, Woori closed about a year later, forcing Wu back to the housekeeping world until she caught a break, finding funding to open Xi’an Noodles just a few blocks north of her previous location on University Way. Wu was heavily involved in the physical and mental labor of building out the restaurant and her business. “I had no blueprint. Just a rolling pin and perseverance, working constantly, including all the holidays,” Wu recalls. “I appreciated all the experiences, however hard, in giving birth to my baby. I learned so much. Life is about enrichment.”Positive reviews made Xi’an Noodles a popular place, and after entertaining offers to expand elsewhere, she opened her second location at Westlake Center in September 2019 — just months before the start of the COVID pandemic. Wu remained undaunted. “Life hits us with challenges, but like Confucius taught, we should face our challenges, learn from them, and find opportunity with every crisis,” she says. “I tried to take care of myself during COVID, and I used the time of closure as a chance to remodel the University District restaurant.”An outside table at Happy Crab. Brooke FittsWu would eventually open a third Xi’an Noodles in Bellevue, in 2022. About the same time, though, she conceived another restaurant idea, again inspired by food she enjoyed in China. “There’s a lot of mala crawfish in China. And I noticed Cajun seafood becoming popular in California and elsewhere,” she explains. “I thought to myself, why not create something using ingredients I love, like butter crab over hand-pulled noodles? Cajun meets Chinese could be a rethinking of what Chinese-American cuisine can be.” And thus the idea of Happy Crab came about.She didn’t even start tinkering with a recipe until she found a space in Auburn (“I needed a standalone building with a parking lot”) to lease. During physical construction of the restaurant, she finally started experimenting in the developing kitchen. “After 10 years in the restaurant business, I was confident I could create the right recipes. I have no fear,” Wu says.Happy Crab opened in October 2024. But even as the Auburn location launched, Wu envisioned a Happy Crab restaurant in Seattle, wanting a landmark location for her higher-end dining concept. Her holiday gift arrived on Christmas Day in 2024 when she signed a lease for the former Anthony’s Homeport space on the waterfront at Shilshole Bay in Ballard.Wu says that Seaview will have a more expanded menu than Auburn. For example, given the popularity of xiao long bao (soup dumplings), she plans to introduce ma la dumplings that are both numbing and spicy. She’s also planning to introduce some seafood soup dumplings.A detail of one of the tables at Happy Crab. Brooke FittsAt the same time, with years of experience under her belt, Wu now hopes to help others in the industry. She wants Seaview to provide a place for up-and-coming chefs to show off their talent, planning Resident Chef Nights in which they can create other dishes for the menu on their chosen night. “This can change other people’s lives,” she says. There’s talk of a piano and an open mike as well.But first and foremost, Wu wants her new restaurant to be accessible and affordable—and not a place just for the wealthy to eat. “I intend to offer delicious dishes at a reasonable price so that everyone can come regardless of their income,” she says. “I come from modesty and understand struggle. Now I want to create a place where anyone can come to enjoy the view, enjoy the sea breeze, enjoy the sunset, and enjoy seafood and noodles. I want everyone to come to Happy Crab and be happy.”
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Latest News
JBLM soldier sentenced for sexually assaulting college student in barracks
A military judge sentenced Pvt. Deron Gordon to over six years in prison for sexually assaulting a college student.
JOINT BASE LEWIS-MCCHORD, Wash. — A Joint Base Lewis-McChord soldier who sexually assaulted a college student in the barracks in 2024 was sentenced to more than six years in prison Friday.
A military judge sentenced Pvt. Deron Gordon, 20, to six years and three months in prison after he pleaded guilty to one specification each of sexual assault, abusive sexual contact and as a principal to indecent recording.
Gordon was previously charged with additional crimes, but those were dismissed as part of the plea agreement.
Gordon is one of four soldiers who were charged in in connection to the sexual assault of a college student, who is now a commissioned Army officer, in October 2024.
When Gordon pleaded guilty, he said that he and another soldier followed the college student into a bedroom after she had been drinking with them. He said she was unstable walking into the room and when they went inside she was on the bed and not responsive.
Gordon said he and the other soldier each proceeded to have sex with her and they filmed each other sexually assaulting her on Snapchat.
As part of his sentencing, Gordon will be reduced in rank to E-1 and dishonorably discharged from the Army.
Gordon will serve the remainder of his sentencing at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas. Once he is released, Gordon must register as a sex offender.
The three other soldiers who were charged in the incident are at different points in the legal process, and their cases are being treated separately.
If you or someone you know has been a victim of sexual assault, you can call the National Sexual Assault Hotline at 1-800-656-4673. Additional resources are available on the Washington State Department of Health's website.
KING 5’s Conner Board contributed to this report.
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Local News
Teen sentenced in 2023 deadly Metro bus shooting near White Center
In the plea agreement, the teen said he recognized the man from pulling a gun on him on the bus several days prior and was nervous and scared.
WHITE CENTER, Wash. — A teenager was sentenced Friday to over 23 years in prison for shooting and killing a man aboard a King County Metro bus near White Center in 2023.
King County Judge Brian McDonald sentenced Miguel Rivera Dominguez, 19, to 23 years and 4 months in prison, with credit for time served. Prison time will be followed by three years of community custody.
The sentencing comes after Rivera Dominguez pleaded guilty July 3 of first-degree premeditated murder.
On Oct. 3, 2023, Rivera Dominguez fired five shots from “point blank range” at the head and neck of Marcel Da'jon Wagner, 21, who appeared to be asleep aboard the bus near Southwest Roxbury Street and 15th Avenue Southwest, according to charging documents.
In the plea agreement, Rivera Dominguez said he recognized Wagner from having “pulled a gun” on him on the bus a few days prior.
“i was nervous and scared when I saw him on 10/3/23 but he was not threatening me and I was not acting in self-defense,” Rivera Dominguez wrote.
There were 15 other passengers on the bus at the time, but none of them were injured in the shooting.
Rivera Dominguez, who was 17 at the time of the shooting, fled after the incident and remained at large for a month before he turned himself in.
The shooting prompted concerns about safety aboard King County Metro buses. After the shooting, Metro said it would add security to the H Line, expanding transit security officers who patrol buses and transit centers.
Local News
Let’s Go Washington launches initiative campaign on trans youth sports, parental rights
Let's Go Washington, the backers of the 2024 initiatives, is looking for signatures again.
OLYMPIA, Wash. — Let's Go Washington is back in the initiative game.
The organization, founded by Brian Heywood, sponsored several initiatives in 2024 changing state law.
Heywood announced Monday signatures are being gathered to submit two initiatives to the 2026 state Legislature or potentially voters. The initiatives relate to parental rights and trans youth athletes.
Heywood's organization achieved significant victories last year when voters supported initiatives restricting natural gas use and overturning state laws limiting police pursuits. The state Legislature also passed Let's Go Washington-backed measures banning income taxes and guaranteeing parental rights to access school records. The success came after Heywood invested more than $5 million of his own money into seven initiatives.
"Someone has to stand up and fight back. And what I think I've done is given the voice. I've given voice to 1.2 million people who signed at least one of our initiatives," Heywood said.
However, the organization faced a setback earlier this year when Gov. Bob Ferguson signed legislation overhauling the "parents bill of rights" initiative.
"It stripped all the parts about parental notification or parental access to information," Heywood said.
In response, Let's Go Washington is now gathering signatures for two new campaigns. The first seeks to overturn Ferguson's recent law, restoring their original parental rights initiative. The second would require physicians to assign genders to youth athletes during physicals, prohibiting those considered males from competing against females.
"Allowing biological males to compete in girls sports is a blatant, a flagrant violation of Title IX, I would argue, and also extremely unfair to girls who've worked really hard to get in a position to be top athletes," Heywood said.
Despite failing to pass initiatives targeting the state's climate law, long-term care savings program, and capital gains tax in 2024, Heywood remains optimistic about his organization's impact.
"Four out of seven, I'm pretty, pretty happy with what we did, and we're not done," he said.
If the organization can collect enough signatures by the end of the year, the issues would be submitted to the state Legislature. Lawmakers could either pass the initiatives or let voters decide in November 2026.


