Pioneer Square is the muddy spiritual center of Seattle. Part of the historic city that burned down in 1889, the neighborhood was rebuilt to be a full story higher up, creating a warren of catacombs that is today a tourist attraction. Pioneer Square has been a hotbed of nightlife (including gay nightlife), a gathering place for artists and yuppies, and a provider of services to the down-and-out, thanks to its large number of missions and homeless shelters. Occasionally, it’s been a symbol of Seattle’s decline or renewal as a city.
It’s also, not incidentally, a great place to eat right now.
The past year has seen an impressive
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