When Dave Cooper opened his French-ish sandwich shop in the basement of the historic Courthouse Square in summer 2025, he wasn’t expecting this level of hype. Within months, he was featured in the Tacoma News-Tribune, KING-5’s Evening Magazine, and even in the hallowed old Seattle Times. For a Tacoma restaurant? Not bad, A former exec chef at Seattle institution Le Pichet, Cooper’s bringing that Parisienne pizzazz down to the South Sound, and it’s the classic jambon beurre that he’s built his rep around: French ham, butter, sliced Comté, and cornichons on a chewy Grand Central Bakery half-baguette. It’s, in fact, not bad — it’s spectacular — but you’d be wrong to sleep on his other sandwiches, like, say, the braised beef with labneh and red cabbage-carrot slaw on a baguette, or the light, stupidly juicy fried chicken schnitzel with Gruyère and mayo on a round bun. Not Bad can get backlogged around lunchtime, but if you need something to ride you over until your sandwich is ready, try a lovely li’l bowl of soup with lentils, garbanzos, carrots, and harissa. Très Français.
Meg van Huygen/Eater Seattle
