It’s fitting that Onibaba, one of the most anticipated restaurants of the year, opened very quietly a week ago.
Onibaba’s owners are famous — if that’s possible — for being publicity-adverse. For nearly three decades until closing at the end of 2022, their restaurant Tsukushinbo had no exterior sign, website, or any social media account. It attracted Ichiro and other Japanese dignitaries for its varied menu, including blackboard items listed in Japanese like “ika special”— squid simmered in its own guts. Its Friday-only lunch ramen, a carb-heavy bargain that included gyoza and rice with the shoyu ramen, attracted pre-opening lines of noodle fanatics long before the ramen trend really
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